Nadja

dans le metro

Three Creeps

Perhaps it was in part my fault: I wore a low-cut shirt for the first time today and shorts over tights and high boots. It’s been raining nearly every day until now and I wanted to wear something sunny and automnal. Or perhaps it was the cat-calling chain reaction that seems to happen: one guy says something, then for the rest of my walk it happens again and again. It’s not that the men hear or see each other, so something must change about my expression or posture that makes me seem vulnerable or defensive or at least like unlikely to punch anyone. Whatever the reason, I took one ten minute walk today and things were especially bad. On top of the standard “hello, you’re charming, oo la la la“‘s, these 3 things happened:

1) A man I passed did a U-turn and began to follow me for a few steps, whispering at me “hey miss, hey stop for a second I just want to talk to you!” When I ignored him, he shouted down the street at me, “You’re ugly, anyway! I was trying to do you a favor by talking to you!”

2) Two old men were standing facing each other at the corner. As I approached, one of them turned to watch me. As I walked between them, they both very obviously looked me up and down. One said, “What do you think of this one?” and the other said, “hmmmm” as if he weren’t sure.

3) As I passed a group of young men, one of them very obviously used his phone to video tape me walking, holding it at arms length and turning it to follow me. As I passed, his friend said something really obscene about my body which I don’t feel like retyping. I flipped them off but it only seemed to delight them further. 

This all happened over the course of this walk. I’m torn between American and French reactions. My American self is thinking: what kind of fucking world is this where I can’t walk down the street without being aggressively objectified and insulted?! But my new French self is thinking: just wear more turtle necks. 

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Yesterday I went to visit Agnes and Pierre. They live in a cozy house surrounded by an overflowing garden. The house once belonged to Agnes’s parents; she was born there. She showed us ceramic jewelry her mother had made during the war. In the middle of the winding suitcase, half way between the floors, there was a little bookshelf nook. 

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A friend of mine came to Paris for a year and fell in love with a Frenchman. She’s since moved back to New York but she sent her boyfriend to pick me up on his scooter and take me out.  I hopped on the back and we drove to a trendy bar in the red light district of Pigalle. He’s moving to New York next month to be with her. When I saw him, he’d just quit his job. 
 
“Everyone keeps telling me I’m crazy,” he said, “to quit my job in the middle of the economic crisis.”  
 
“What was your job?” I asked. 
 
“I built homes in Paris for Saudi royalty. A Saudi princess would say, ‘I want a fountain in my bedroom,’ and I’d build her one.” 
 
“That happened?” I asked. 
 
“Yes,” he said, “This 19 year old wanted a fountain, so we hired the top design firm in France and we went through 9 different plans before she approved one.  It took months. She’d say things like ‘Actually, I don’t like purple anymore. Make one of a different color. Oh!” He called out to a friend of his. “Did you hear I quit my job? I’m moving to New York.”  
 
“Yeah,” his friend called back. “In this crisis? You’re crazy.” 
 
“You see?” he turned back to me, smiling and shrugging.
 
“What did your boss say when you quit?” I asked.
 
“He was really upset. They’d just gotten this big contract and they needed me to go to Saudi Arabia. My boss called me into his office and told me I had to stay. He said, ‘What is your price?’ and I said, ‘I’m moving for love. I have no price. ’”
 
“And then he understood?” I asked. 
 
“Of course. He said, ‘In that case, I can’t stop you. Go.’”

A friend of mine came to Paris for a year and fell in love with a Frenchman. She’s since moved back to New York but she sent her boyfriend to pick me up on his scooter and take me out.  I hopped on the back and we drove to a trendy bar in the red light district of Pigalle. He’s moving to New York next month to be with her. When I saw him, he’d just quit his job. 
 
“Everyone keeps telling me I’m crazy,” he said, “to quit my job in the middle of the economic crisis.”  
 
“What was your job?” I asked. 
 
“I built homes in Paris for Saudi royalty. A Saudi princess would say, ‘I want a fountain in my bedroom,’ and I’d build her one.” 
 
“That happened?” I asked. 
 
“Yes,” he said, “This 19 year old wanted a fountain, so we hired the top design firm in France and we went through 9 different plans before she approved one.  It took months. She’d say things like ‘Actually, I don’t like purple anymore. Make one of a different color. Oh!” He called out to a friend of his. “Did you hear I quit my job? I’m moving to New York.”  
 
“Yeah,” his friend called back. “In this crisis? You’re crazy.” 
 
“You see?” he turned back to me, smiling and shrugging.
 
“What did your boss say when you quit?” I asked.
 
“He was really upset. They’d just gotten this big contract and they needed me to go to Saudi Arabia. My boss called me into his office and told me I had to stay. He said, ‘What is your price?’ and I said, ‘I’m moving for love. I have no price. ’”
 
“And then he understood?” I asked. 
 
“Of course. He said, ‘In that case, I can’t stop you. Go.’”

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There was a sale on cepes at the vegetable stand. “10 euros le kilo, les beau champignons!” the man called over and over. The stand was mobbed by middle aged women grabbing mushrooms. I pushed my way through and got some myself, even though I didn’t know what they were. I asked the man running the stand how to prepare them. “Ah!” he said, clearly pleased to be asked. He took one of my mushrooms and held it delicately between his thumb and forefinger. “Here,” he said, lovingly brushing the stem with his finger tip, “you scrape with a knife, very gently. Then the top,” he waved his hand over the mushroom cap, just barely grazing it with his palm, “you wipe it softly with a damp cloth. Then tac tac tac you chop it into thin slices and you cook it with your olive oil, garlic and parsley. A delicacy.” I thanked him, and another man leaned across the clementines to add some advice. “You must never ever wash them,” the second man said, waving his finger at me. “And your oil must be very very hot.”

I went home. I dabbed the mushrooms lovingly with a damp towel. I scraped them gently with a knife. I kept them far away from water. I made my oil steam. This is what I created:

It tastes about as good as it looks. Glutinous, except for the dirt, which is gritty. Looks like it’ll be another dinner of cheese for me. 

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Installed the new show at the gallery today - New Yorker covers. My mom arrives Saturday. There is no escape.

Installed the new show at the gallery today - New Yorker covers. My mom arrives Saturday. There is no escape.

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I don’t understand how people get dressed without a full length mirror. I haven’t had one for the past few days, so I bought an over-the-door mirror from a cheap home goods shop. I carried it home facing away from me. Everyone I passed in the street craned their heads to look at their own reflections. Towards the end of my walk, I passed a group of three guys waiting in line outside a movie theater. They all three spontaneously began chanting “mirroir mirroir mirroir ohhh le beau mirroir.”

I don’t understand how people get dressed without a full length mirror. I haven’t had one for the past few days, so I bought an over-the-door mirror from a cheap home goods shop. I carried it home facing away from me. Everyone I passed in the street craned their heads to look at their own reflections. Towards the end of my walk, I passed a group of three guys waiting in line outside a movie theater. They all three spontaneously began chanting “mirroir mirroir mirroir ohhh le beau mirroir.”

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A costume shop I walked by today

A costume shop I walked by today

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I was working at Rina’s gallery today and at exactly 12:30pm everything stopped for lunch. We sat outside at one of the four cafes on the corner. Rina’s husband came to join us from his studio a few blocks away and her daughter came from her architecture school. We ordered glasses of wine and fresh salads and then later espressos and we sat and talked for a full hour. All around us, other French people were doing the same thing. At some point I swiveled my head around and stared - not a single person in sight was looking at a smart phone. So different from lunch in New York!

I was working at Rina’s gallery today and at exactly 12:30pm everything stopped for lunch. We sat outside at one of the four cafes on the corner. Rina’s husband came to join us from his studio a few blocks away and her daughter came from her architecture school. We ordered glasses of wine and fresh salads and then later espressos and we sat and talked for a full hour. All around us, other French people were doing the same thing. At some point I swiveled my head around and stared - not a single person in sight was looking at a smart phone. So different from lunch in New York!

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I had my very first randomly rude interaction with a French shopkeeper today! First of many, I’m sure. I went on a walk this morning and passed a fruit stand like the one above. As I walked inside, a few steps past the cashier, the woman called after me angrily “Madame! Madame!” I turned around. She waved a finger at me and frowned sternly. “Il ne pleut pas dans le magazin, madame,” she said. “It’s not raining inside the store.” Apparently, I hadn’t closed my umbrella fast enough.

I had my very first randomly rude interaction with a French shopkeeper today! First of many, I’m sure. I went on a walk this morning and passed a fruit stand like the one above. As I walked inside, a few steps past the cashier, the woman called after me angrily “Madame! Madame!” I turned around. She waved a finger at me and frowned sternly. “Il ne pleut pas dans le magazin, madame,” she said. “It’s not raining inside the store.” Apparently, I hadn’t closed my umbrella fast enough.

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Leather Jacket

I was walking quickly in the rain today on my way to a store I know that sells only fountain pens, wax seals, and strangely shaped envelopes (octagonal, triangular), when a stout middle-aged man in a store called out to me.

“Excuse me miss! I have a question! Perhaps you can help me.” He was on the phone, but he held it away from his ear. I stopped, and he waved me closer, into his store filled with leather coats.

“How would you like it if I made you a gift of a free leather jacket and you will wear it to do some promotion for the store?” he said.

I’d just been cursing myself for bringing only a heavy winter coat to this unfailingly rainy and 60 degree city, so even though the New Yorker in me sensed a scam, I said, “Well, I would like it if you did that.”

“Great, great,” he said, “you are young, you are pretty, you must have friends who like coats,” and he beckoned me over to a desk where he pulled out a business card and wrote down my name on it and “from NYC.”

“How old are you?” he asked, “20?”

I wish I’d said, “No, but not old enough to need to be flattered about it either,” but instead I said, “25.”

“Good, good,” he said, “and do you have a boyfriend? Are you engaged?” I laughed.

“I’m only asking so that I can know if I should think of a coat for him as well,” he said, “but now, see, I can think only of you.”

“I am a little naughty,” he said, and laughed.  He asked me what I was doing in Paris, when I got here, where I was living. I thought about lying but instead answered vaguely and truthfully. 

He got up, chose a short black leather coat off the rack and handed it to me. I put it on. It fit like a glove. I was admiring myself in the mirror when he walked over to the door and closed it in the face of a young man outside. The young man pushed inside anyway and smiled at me. He was gangly, with a pointy face and a goofy smile.

“As soon as there’s a pretty girl in the store, he locks me out!” he said, “So, you’re going to do some promotion for the store?”

“Um,” I said, “well, I’m not going to buy a coat, so I suppose that’s what I’m here for.”

The young man came over to me, and peppered me with the same series of questions. When I looked around, the older man had disappeared.

“That coat looks very nice on you,” he said, “now if you could have a second coat, any one, which color would it be?”

“I’d like a brown one,” I said.

“Brown? No. What about red?” he said.

“Sure,” I said, “ok, red.” I began to take the black jacket off as he turned toward the rack for a red coat

“Let’s see how you are,” he said, bending sideways at the waist to look at my body. “Ok, very chesty.”  I laughed.

“I mean, I must look just to see what will fit you! Try this one, but wear it open.” He winked at me and handed me a short red leather jacket and I put it on.

“Stunning!” he said, “How old are you, 20?”

“25,” I said.

“Very good very good. Now, if you buy one of these coats, I will give you two more for free.”

“I can’t buy any coats,” I said, “I just told you – I just moved to Paris, and I don’t have any money.”

“Ok, ok,” he said, “but if you could have a third coat, any one, would you want a long one or a short one?”

“A short one,” I said.

“No no,” he said, “a long one is better. Here, a brown one this time.” He handed me a tan leather trench coat. “This one is 800 euros, but I’ll give it to you for 150 euros,” he said, and smiled and winked again. 

“If you buy just one coat, you can pay it in little installments,” he told me, “and I will give you the other two for free.”

“I really don’t have the money,” I said, “seriously.” He turned to look at me in the mirror.

“You look ravishing in that brown one…” he said, “If I weren’t gay…” he smiled and winked again.

“Really? Me too!” I said, taking off the brown coat.

“You prefer women?” he said.

“Yes,” I said.

“Yes, a woman is softer, no? Not like a man, blech.” He made a face. I laughed and began to gather my things.

“Come back when you’ve earned money,” he said.

“I won’t,” I said, “but I enjoyed trying on all your coats.”

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